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Wednesday 18 May 2011

Musical pilgrimage Insider Guide

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Hip-hop

JDL from Cold Crush Brothers: the Bronx

The Paradise Theater (2413 Grand Concourse, Bronx, New York, +1 718 220 1015, paradisetheaterevents.com) opened in 1929 and, back in the day, people went there to watch movies. It closed in 1994, but was reopened a few years ago by Cathy Moriarty-Gentile – who is from the Bronx and played Vikki LaMotta opposite Robert De Niro in Raging Bull – and her husband Joseph Gentile, as a great music venue. You get some good old school hip-hop acts playing there.

There aren't any good record shops left in the Bronx now, in the digital age, but SOS DJ (1154 Castle Hill Ave, Bronx, New York, +1 718 829 4000, sosdjshop.com) is a great DJ shop, the best joint to go to for turntables, mixers, amps, you name it.

If you're after vinyl, I would probably send you down to Rock and Soul (462 7th Avenue, New York, +1 212 695 3953, rockandsoul.com), which has a lot of old hip-hop and repressings, as well as DJ equipment.

If you're after some real good soul food, I'd definitely recommend Jacob's Restaurant (373 Malcom X Boulevard, +1 212 866 3663, jacobrestaurant.com) in Harlem. I'll tell you now, that joint is better than Sylvia's (sylviassoulfood.com), which is better known and only two blocks down. Sylvia's is good, but you got to check Jacob's.

You should also check out Doug E's Chicken and Waffles (2245 Adam Clayton Powell Jr Blvd, +1 212 368 4371), from hip-hop pioneer Doug E Fresh. They do amazing cookies-and-cream waffles and peach cobbler waffles. Doug E, the man they call "the original human beatbox" only lives one block over, in an old Brownstone, so he'll be there a couple of nights a week.

Down in Brooklyn, Buffalo Boss (554 Fulton Street, +1 718 624 2677, buffaloboss.com) is quite a new joint, opened late last year, and owned by Jay-Z's cousin Jamar White, and Jay has put some money behind it. They got good sweet potato fries and great chicken wings with a hot sauce they call Fire In The Hole.

‧ JDL is a member of Cold Crush Brothers, one of the earliest hip-hop crews, formed in the Bronx, the home of hip-hop, in 1979. See coldcrushbrothers.com for gigs

DJ Yoda: New York City, Rio, Shenzhen

New York City is really the mecca for any fan of hip-hop. It's true – most of the classic record stores have closed now, and the city's club scene ain't what it used to be. But you can take the Roots of Hip-Hop tour in Harlem (292 Fifth Ave, +1 212 209 3370, hushtours.com), and see 1520 Sedgwick Avenue, the birthplace of hip-hop, where the likes of Kool Herc and Grandmaster Flash first scratched a record. The tour is led by old-school rappers too, so it's nice to know old rappers don't die, they just become tour guides.

But a lot of places like Harlem and Brooklyn that birthed hip-hop have slowly become gentrified throughout the years. So it's appropriate that a new, bastardised style of hip-hop, known as "baile funk", is being born out of the favelas of Rio de Janeiro. The music is uptempo and raw, and has gained a respectable international fanbase. The last time I DJ'd in Rio was at the TIM festival alongside one of the biggest baile funk DJs, Sany Pitbull, and seeing him playing this music to 10,000 adoring fans was unforgettable.

A less likely place is Shenzhen, in China. I went to DJ there without knowing anything about it. When I got to the city I was surprised to discover that it has a bigger population than London. Everything is new, everyone is young, and they are just discovering western-style hip-hop and clubbing. There is more bling and more flashy cars than P Diddy would ever require, so in many ways it's more hip-hop than most other places I've been. The club I went to was called Babyface (Jiangbei Road, babyface.com.cn), and is a crazy, multi-roomed mega-club with karaoke in one room, a whisky bar in another and then the guest DJ in a big room.

‧ DJ Yoda (djyoda.co.uk) does his AV show at Glastonbury on 26 June (glastonburyfestivals.co.uk)

Dance, disco, electro

Andy Butler from Hercules and Love Affair: New York City

Disco freaks have to visit New York. Neil Aline's Nouveaux New York party which happens at Le Bain at the Standard Hotel (848 Washington at 13th Street, +1 212 645 4646, standardhotels.com/new-york-city) in the Meatpacking District is fun. This part of New York has become a little overrun with people trying to get the Sex and the City experience, but here the crowd is cute, the sound system great and the DJ line-up solid. Expect disco and house of the highest order with Aline of Chez Records fame at the helm. The SubMercer (147 1/2 Mercer St, +1 212 966 6060) is a club underneath the Mercer Hotel in SoHo, which boasts a great mix of DJs. One night they might have a disco legend, the next a quality hip-hop DJ.

Barcelona's best export, Sylvia Prada, has been having parties over in NYC recently. Whether she is hosting a party for fashion boutique Opening Ceremony (openingceremony.us) or throwing her Club Tropicana party at Trophy Bar in Williamsburg (351 Broadway, between 9th and Keap St, +1 347 2278515, trophybar.blogspot.com), you know the music, on a classic house tip, is gonna be good, and the people sexy. Kim Ann Foxman from Hercules and Love Affair plays regularly.

‧ Hercules and Love Affair play Springfestival, Graz, Austria, which takes place from 1-5 June (springfestival.at)

Steve Angello, Swedish House Mafia: Miami

South Beach is my favourite area of Miami. We usually stay at the W Hotel (2201 Collins Avenue, +1 305 938 3000, southbeach.com) and use that as a base. The W is not only the best hotel, it's also where a lot of DJs and the music industry hang out, so if you hang around the bar you end up seeing everyone!

The LIV (4441 Collins Ave, +1 305 674 4680, livnightclub.com) in Fontainebleau, Miami Beach, has an amazing vibe and a great line of great, mainly big-name house DJs. Go to the Delano (1685 Collins Avenue, +305 672 2000, delano-hotel.com) for poolside dining and great cocktails, with an underwater soundtrack. While you're in Miami, make sure you stay up to see the sun come up … and try a drink called Miami Vice, which is a mix of rum, daiquiri and half pina colada.

‧ Swedish House Mafia (swedishhousemafia.com) play T in the Park in Kinross-Shire on 9 July

Kissy Sell Out, DJ: Toronto

There is a very vibrant electronic music scene in Toronto, with many notable artists emerging such as MSTRKRFT and Zeds Dead. The dubstep scene is currently setting the city ablaze, but for big room dance-music connoisseurs there are also huge clubs such as Guvernment Night Club (132 Queens Quay East, +1 416 869 0045, theguvernment.com ), which hosts thousands of passionate clubbers every night to a world-class sound system with decadent interior design to rival any super club.

‧ Kissy Sell Out's new album, Wild Romance, is out on 23 May on sancityhigh.com and ITunes

Annie Nightingale, DJ: Eastern Europe

Eastern Europe is the most exciting place I've been recently for an adventurous break, with dance music.

The Sziget festival in Hungary (8-15 August, sziget.hu/festival_english) is brilliant and magical. Near Budapest, it's the size of Reading festival, with a Glastonbury vibe, and takes place on an island in the middle of the river.

My most bizarre clubbing experience there was in Romania, in a resort on the Black Sea called Mamaia (mamaia.com), that was built for workers in Ceausescu's time. It was in a hotel and was like something out of Scarface – very heavy-looking characters who had bodyguards and were surrounded by scantily dressed women. These rich guys arrived around 9pm and sat there with a big bottle of vodka, listening to the most awful Eurotrash music. But then at 2-3pm, all the young promoters took over, all the cool young people suddenly came flooding in, and they took over the night, which was done on a shoestring and basically funded by the rich guys – a clever use of the economic system. The young ones then played all night, very now music.

‧ PLUG??

Tensnake, DJ: Helsinki

Helsinki is a really beautiful city: it's warm and summery and the people so hungry and happy! I played at a place called Club YK (Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 21, clubyk.fi), a beautiful new club with a fantastic sound system and brand new interior. The people were stage-diving and crowd-surfing during my set – it was one of the craziest nights I've ever experienced. They also know a lot about dance music. It feels so fresh.

PLUG??

Indie, shoe gaze

Hot Club De Paris

Back in 2006 during the strong-pound-against-the-dollar days, we found ourselves in a Chicago neighbourhood by the name of Bucktown to make our second album (Live at Dead Lake) with native Brian Deck (Modest Mouse, Iron and Wine) at his studio, Engine. We'd picked the city because of our obsession with its experimental indie rock heritage, and quickly discovered the scene we'd romanticised from afar in Blighty was attentive, accepting, committed and awesome. Long studio days were generally capped with a quiet drink and a bout of guitar perving in Rick Nielsen's (of Cheap Trick) pizza bar, Piece Brewery and Pizzeria (1927 W North Ave, +1 773 772 4422, piecechicago.com). Party nights involved checking out local gig venues like the Empty Bottle (1035 N Western Ave, +1 773 276 3600, emptybottle.com) – where we saw Joan of Arc's Tim Kinsella and Cryptacize, or heading out to bars like the Rainbo Club (1150 N Damen Ave, +1 773 489 5999), in the Ukranian Village area, where Chicago's alt-aristocracy tend the bar. Audio holidayers should go check out Steve Albini's studio Electrical Audio (2621 W Belmont Ave, +1 773 539 2555, electrical.com) to take a look to see where your favourite records were made (he recorded albums for Nirvana, Pixies, PJ Harvey), and to finally see the room around Albini's famous snare drum sound.

‧ Hot Club De Paris (hotclubdeparis.com) play Liverpool Sound City on 19-21 May liverpoolsoundcity.co.uk

Fink, singer, DJ and producer: Paris

Ok, Paris isn't famous for its music to people outside Paris, but if you're into expanding your horizons it can be really rewarding. The African music scene is genuine, exciting and real, and the city is a destination for all artists at some stage in their career, so it really is so much cooler for music than people give it credit for. The venues are established and cool, relaxed and affordable. If you mix your overdue dirty weekend with a cool gig of a band you love, you will not be disappointed. Oberkampf is the most alive and cool street when it comes to music and drinks, but tourists don't go. Le Nouveau Casino (109 rue Oberkampf, +33 1 4357 5740, nouveaucasion.net) is a venue that turns into a club at weekends. The sound system's good; the bar right next to it, Le Charbon (also 109 rue Oberkampf, +33 1 4357 5513), is always packed with trendy people as well as local drunks.

A bit higher on rue Moret you've got L'International, which is the free gig and trendy cool place in town (there are not many of those in Paris). It's rough and ready, locals-only, and the bands that are booked are sometimes rubbish and sometimes surprisingly awesome: She Keeps Bees, or Peter Bjorn on the mainstream vibe.

Keep going up Menilmontant and you'll get a nice view of the town right before you turn into rue Boyer. There you have La Maroquinerie (23 rue Boyer, +33 1 40 33 35 05, lamaroquinerie.fr), a tiny venue with a courtyard where there is always a gig you wanna see (James Blake did one recently, and Foals have too). It's often a band's first gig on their early European excursions.

‧ Fink (finkworld.co.uk) releases a new album, Perfect Darkness, on 13 June

Grunge

Mark Yarm, grunge blogger and writer: Seattle

In late 1992, a Spin magazine writer declared that Seattle was "to the rock'n'roll world what Bethlehem was to Christianity". The religious fervour surrounding Seattle has faded in the intervening decades, but there are still plenty of shrines in the city, both old and new, for the grunge faithful. A necessary stop is the recently opened Nirvana exhibit at Experience Music Project museum (325 Fifth Ave N, +1 206 770 2700, empsfm.org), which houses an impressive array of relics, including the first guitar Kurt Cobain smashed on stage. About 18km to the north, in Shoreline, is London Bridge Studio (20021 Ballinger Way NE #A, Shoreline, +1 206 364 1525, londonbridgestudio.com), which has just started offering guided tours (by appointment only) of the place where the rest of grunge's Big Four – Pearl Jam, Soundgarden and Alice in Chains – recorded early classics. After nightfall, keep the spirit of 92 alive by catching a rock show at the Crocodile (Alice drummer Sean Kinney is an investor – 2200 Second Ave, +1 206 441 4618, thecrocodile.com) or engaging in an enduring Seattle scene pursuit – getting drunk – at Hazlewood (2311 NW Market St, +1 206 783 0478, myspace.com/hazlewoodbar) a bar co-owned by Soundgarden bassist Ben Shepherd.

‧ Mark Yarm is the author of Everybody Loves Our Town: A History of Grunge (£17.99 Faber), which is out in September. He blogs about all things grunge at grungebook.tumblr.com

60s

Greg Wilson, DJ and producer: San Francisco

I'm a bit of a 60s obsessive, so San Francisco holds special relevance, the city having spawned the hippie movement, not to mention the beatniks before them. On my first trip there, I found myself enthusing like a child on seeing a sign for the Cow Palace (where Ken Kesey and his Merry Pranksters headed in 1964 to watch the Beatles perform; 2600 Geneva Avenue, +1 415 404 4100, cowpalace.com), and my excitement reached boiling point when this was immediately followed by a sign for Candlestick Park (venue of the last Beatles gig, on 29 August 1966; +1 415 656 4900, 49ers.com).

The Haight-Ashbury district was, of course, my first port of call. I was so excited to be at the heartland of hippie that I initially looked at things through rose-coloured specs, almost imagining myself back in the era of the the Free Store (run by counter-culture heroes the Diggers) and the infamous Drog Store Cafe. However, during subsequent visits I've been much more aware of the downside, illustrated by the stream of drug casualties who are still magnetised by its legend well over 40 years after the dream went sour.

‧ Greg Wilson (electrofunkroots.co.uk) plays the Garden Festival in Petrcane, Croatia (6-13 July, thegardenfestival.eu)

Robin Bennett, festival organiser: Woodstock

For most of today's indie kids the Big Pink is a band singing about Dominos. For me it means a hallowed place in Woodstock where Bob Dylan and the Band holed up in a basement crafting dark folk tales of Long Black Veils. I first went to Woodstock a few years back with my brother Joe and our then band Goldrush, choosing this rural idyll in upstate New York for a recording session. Calling on a local for directions, we asked, "Where's Big Pink?"

Turns out it was just a pink house (where some of the greatest songs I've ever heard were penned), but Woodstock – now home to stores owned by ageing hipsters selling faded tie-dye – and upstate New York are well worth the visit nonetheless for all fans of the Band, Dylan and Americana; every log cabin in the mountains seems steeped in musical history and natural beauty.

‧ Robin Bennett's Truck Festival (truckfestival.com) runs 22-24 July, Steventon, Oxfordshire. Wood Festival (woodfestival.com) runs 20-22 May, Braziers Park, Oxfordshire

Soul

Noah Ball, festival organiser: Philadelphia

The musical pilgrimage I'd been planning for a couple of years with a friend from Manchester involved three US cities: Philadelphia, Detroit and LA. Philadelphia was renowned for its Philly soul sound, which brought the Soul Survivors and Teddy Pendergrass into the world; prior to that its jazz scene boasted John Coltrane and Dizzy Gillespie. This legacy of soul and jazz has been kept burning bright in the Philly hip-hop and electronic scene – the Roots, Vikter Duplaix and Bahamadia.

The Clef Club of Jazz and Performing Arts (736-38 S Broad Street, +1 215 893 9912, clefclubofjazz.org) is a venue that we found highly recommendable, and the Philadelphia Record Exchange (618 South 5th Street, +1 215 925 7892, philarecx.com) is perhaps one of the greatest vinyl shops I've ever been to.

‧ Noah Ball's Soundwave Croatia festival (soundwavecroatia.com) runs 22-25 July, Petrcane

Blues

Jon Stewart, Sleeper guitarist and music lecturer: Memphis

Every Blues fan should visit Clarksdale, 75 miles south of Memphis down the fabled Highway 61. Clarksdale was a cultural and economic focus for surrounding cotton plantations, and for many of the legendary musicians who defined the blues.

Muddy Waters and Son House lived locally and played juke joints in the area – some of which, like Red's (395 Sunflower Ave, Clarksdale), you can still visit. Robert Johnson "sold his soul to the devil" at a crossroads on the edge of town, and Bessie Smith died in the colourful Riverside Hotel (615 Sunflower Avenue, +1 662 624 9163) – home at one time or other to almost every name in the blues pantheon, and where Ike Turner also wrote what is generally accepted as the first rock'n'roll song, Rocket 88.

Stay in a refurbished sharecropper cabin at the Shack Up Inn (1 Commissary Circle, +1 662 624 8329, shackupinn.com) to immerse yourself in the vibe of the Mississippi Delta.

‧ Jon Stewart now lectures at Brighton Institute of Modern Music (bimm.co.uk)

Garth Cartwright, music writer: Chicago

The blues never die – as proven recently by Hugh Laurie – and Chicago remains America's foremost blues city. It hosts its annual Chicago Blues Festival from 10-12 June (explorechicago.org). And it's free! The festival's over by 9pm – the perfect time to head out to one of Chicago's blues bars. Buddy Guy's Legends (700 S Wabash, +1 312 427 1190, buddyguys.com) is a great venue that books top artists. Blue Chicago (536 N Clark, +1 312 661 0100, bluechicago.com) in downtown tends towards pleasing tourists with bands playing standards. On the north side of town you have Kingston Mines (2548 North Halsted, +1 773 477 4646, kingstonmines.com) and B.L.U.E.S (2519 N Halsted, +1 773 528 1012, chicagobluesbar.com) – both stay open late and feature local and touring acts. For the adventurous, Lee's Unleaded (7401 S. South Chicago Ave, +1 773 493 3477, leesunleadedblues.com) in the South Side is where black Chicago parties to soul-blues.

‧ Garth Cartwright is the author of More Miles Than Money: Journeys Through American Music (£12.99 Serpent's Tail)

Country

Cerys Matthews, singer of Catatonia and BBC 6 Music DJ

Here's how to do Nashville, where I used to live. Stay in the Hermitage Nashville (231 6th Avenue North, +1 615 244 3121, thehermitagehotel.com), where Neil Young celebrated his Prairie Wind launch – I was there and came face to face with Meryl Streep, a Neil Young fan. Opened in 1910, it is an old-school class hotel. Or the Best Western (1407 Division Street, + 1 615 242 1631, book.bestwestern.com), is a stone's throw from a statue of legendary producer Owen Bradley and all of the record companies offices – here you'll see banners hanging from windows celebrating a chart hit and the writers behind it. The hotel bar hosts open-mic nights where you'll hear some crazy songs. Classic Nashville nights.

In the morning head to the Ryman Auditorium (116 5th Ave North, +1 615 889 3060, ryman.com) downtown. Go on a guided tour – stand on the stage and sing through the mic as part of the tour. Learn about the Grand Ole Opry, which on a Saturday night recorded artists like Dolly Parton and Minnie Pearl performing live to be transmitted to homes around the country.

The alley between the auditorium and the Broadway bars is where Hank Williams would slip out of the Ryman where he was performing and into the back doors of places like Tootsie's Orchid Lounge (422 Broadway, +1 615 726 0463, tootsies.net). Enter a bar of your choice for live music till the early hours. No corny tourist fodder – these are the rehearsing rooms of the session musicians who play at the big recording studios – the later the hour, the better the talent. If you're a musician, you can often get up and play with the bands. They play for tips, which you put in a pot on leaving.

For an idea of the current crop of local musical talent, Grimey's (1604 8th Ave. South, +1 615 254 4801, grimeys.com) has savvy staff and new releases on CD. Mark Never's studio, Beech House (myspace.com/beechhouserecording), is close to Grimey's – recent recordings include Caitlin Rose, Candi Staton, Lamb Chop and … well, umm, me.

After three days in Nashville it's time to head for Memphis. It's a three-hour road trip and so worth it, but that's a whole different story …

‧ Cerys Matthews's new album, Explorer, and her debut children's book Tales from the Deep (£5.99 Gomer Press) are both out now

Traditional British music

Julie Fowlis, folk singer: Ullapool

The best place to hear Gaelic singing and traditional music is the Ceilidh Place (14 West Argyle Street, 01854 612103, theceilidhplace.com), Ullapool on the west coast of Scotland. It's one of the longest-running establishments in this vibrant village for music, with organised gigs and spontaneous sing-songs. I've played there myself – officially and unofficially. It attracts real music lovers, has great food and local beers, rooms to stay in, and is a real rootsy kind of place.

‧ juliefowlis.com

Jackie Oates, folk-pop act: Okehampton

The Devonshire Inn (Sticklepath, Okehampton, Devon, 01837 840626), hosts a sing-around and traditional music session on the first Sunday of the month. It's a tiny, traditional Devon pub, with a stone floor, and large open fire and intimate atmosphere. It is a warm and nurturing environment. I first starting going there as a student: it is the place where I learnt and honed my craft, through listening to older singers, and trying out new songs that I am hooked on.

‧ Jackie Oates is touring with Seth Lakeman and is due to release her album, Saturnine, in September

Irish

Colin Irwin, music journalist: Dublin and the west coast of Ireland

Despite an overload of Glee singers belting out Fields Of Athenry in Dublin, fine musicians can still be found, notably at the Cobblestone (77 North King St, +353 1872 1799, cobblestonepub.ie) in Smithfield, while O'Donoghue's (15 Merrion Row, +353 1660 7194, odonoghues.ie) – indelibly associated with the Dubliners – is also obligatory.

The best Irish music, though, is found on the gorgeous west coast. Lively music bars populate Cork, Kerry, Galway and Mayo (where Matt Molloy of the Chieftains has an eponymously-named pub heaving with live music every night in Westport (+353 098 26655, mattmolloy.com). Yet the heartland of Irish music is County Clare. Great sessions abound in Ennis and Miltown Malbay, especially in early July when Miltown hosts a festival in honour of the great piper Willie Clancy (willieclancyfestival.com). And if you go between 13-22 August, head for Cavan – north-west of Dublin – this year's host of Fleadh Cheoil (fleadh2011cavan.ie), a huge annual gathering of musicians. Wild but wonderful.

‧ Colin Irwin is a music journalist and the author of In Search of the Craic: One Man's Pub Crawl Through Irish Music (£6.99 Andre Deutch)

World music

Kapka Kassabova, travel writer: Tango in Buenos Aires

It takes two to tango: you and Buenos Aires. You won't understand tango music until you visit – because it's not a music genre, it's a way of life. Walk along Avenida Corrientes, where old tangos play in every bookshop, and stop at music store Zivals (V Callao 395, +54 115 128 7500, tangostore.com). Drop in at the Museum of Tango above Cafe Tortoni (Avenida de Mayo, +54 114 342 4328, cafetortoni.com), and you might catch young tango musicians rehearsing. Avoid over-priced restaurant tango shows and hit the milonga circuit instead, to see glammed-up locals and visitors dance in a sweaty trance at Salon Canning (Scalabrini Ortiz 1331, +54 114 832 6753). Catch tango sensation Fernandez Fierro Orquesta – the heavy metal of tango music – who regularly play at their eponymous club (Sanchez de Bustamante 764, fernandezfierro.com). Go soon, although "tango knows how to wait".

‧ Kapka Kassabova's dance memoir Twelve Minutes of Love: A Tango Story (£18.99 Portobello) is out in November

Rose Skelton, journalist and specialist in west African music: Mbalax in Dakar

The music pioneered by Senegalese superstar Youssou N'Dour is known as mbalax – a blend of traditional sabar, Cuban salsa and the soaring vocals of west African praise singers – and this high-energy, frenetic dance music is the beat of the street in Dakar today. For a relaxed intro, head to Just4u (Avenue Chiekh Anta Diop, +221 33 824 3250, myspace.com/just4udakar) for an early (midnight!) session of local and international legends. Madison (K1 Avenue Cheikh Anta Diop, +221 77 535 9997, madison-dakar.com) has wild mbalax performances that get going late (2am). But an evening in Dakar isn't complete without a trip to Youssou's own club, where he performs at weekends when he's in town. Le Thiossane (Sicap Rue 10 Point E, +221 33 824 6046) is iconic Dakar: glittery-dressed women, new dance moves created on the spot, and the eye-popping energy of Youssou and his band, doing what they've been famously doing for 40 years.

‧ PLUG NEEDED??

Jan Fairley, music critic and ethnomusicologist: Flamenco in Jerez de la Frontera, Spain

As the modern crucible of the art of flamenco, Jerez draws thousands to masterclasses with top names and locals like the charismatic Manuela Carpio, with whom I did fast bulerias dances this year. Gigs start at 7pm in the Palacio de Villavicencio (Paseo Alameda Vieja, +34 956 326923), part of the Moorish Alcazar fortress. Then go for tapas at the bar abutting the Villamarta theatre (Plaza Romero Martinez) before evening performances there by top choreographers like Eva Yerbabuena or singers like Miguel Poveda.

In the daytime, hang out in Bar Gitaneria (Calle Ancha 18), frequented by guitarist Moraito. Then drop in at the Cafe Arriate (Calle Francos 41) before the midnight show at Sala Compania (Plaza Compania). After that, it's standing room only at local late pena clubs.

‧ festivaldejerez.es, flamenco-world.com, deflamenco.com

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